The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has just made history, acquiring its first sgian dubh for the permanent collection—a ceremonial Highland knife reimagined through the artistry of Scottish jeweler Ellis Mhairi Cameron.
Traditionally tucked into the sock as part of Highland dress, the sgian dubh has long symbolized lineage, honor, and personal protection. But Cameron’s version, crafted in collaboration with bladesmith Simon Maillet, pushes the object beyond tradition and into the realm of fine jewelry and cultural commentary.
The collection of five knives, each titled with Roman numerals, draws directly from fragments of 18th-century weaponry unearthed on Cameron’s ancestral farmland. They are not just ceremonial objects, but storytelling pieces that fuse heritage, craftsmanship, and modern jewelry design.
The sgian dubh acquired by the V&A was forged with a three-layer san-mai construction—a 52100 steel core enveloped with vintage Sheffield iron—its textured surface engraved and set with a scatter of antique old-cut diamonds. This meticulous work took over 20 hours to complete and captures Cameron’s signature style: raw, organic forms that honor Scottish terrain and culture.
What makes this acquisition even more symbolic is the dual recognition of heritage and innovation. The sgian dubh is a centuries-old emblem of Scottish identity, yet Cameron’s adaptation reframes it for today’s design world, positioning Scottish jewelry alongside broader European traditions of precious metalwork.
The museum also acquired Cameron’s sketchbook, preserving the creative process alongside the finished artifact. The sgian dubh now takes its place in the V&A’s metalwork gallery, a setting usually dominated by English, French, and Italian traditions. Its presence sends a powerful message about Scotland’s often-overlooked jewelry lineage and how contemporary designers can challenge institutional narratives.
Cameron called the acquisition “a proud and historic moment for Scotland,” emphasizing how important it is to see Highland dress represented in such a prestigious collection. For collectors, the moment also underscores a rising appetite for bespoke commissions that merge cultural storytelling with fine jewelry craftsmanship—an area Cameron’s studio continues to lead.
👉 Discover how heritage and innovation collide in our Jewelry Guide, exploring the stories behind cultural symbols transformed into modern fine jewelry.