Gurhan Orhan, the talented Turkish metalsmith and fine jeweler best known for using pure 24k gold, does not, as a rule, pay attention to trends.
“The way we are working is a little bit different than the market is working,” Orhan tells JCK on a recent video call from his workshop in Manhattan’s Tribeca neighborhood. “I mean, I’m not even looking at what’s going on in the market. We buy our stones in Tucson, and we concentrate on those stones and make them into jewelry in our style, whatever it is. We are not following any color or style trends.”
Which isn’t to say that Orhan’s collection isn’t trendy—just not intentionally so. On the call, he showed off a number of new styles he’s created for 2025 that strike all the right notes, from micromosaic pendants to strands of lustrous pearls.
Below, we highlight a handful of new designs that epitomize Gurhan’s old-world style and new-world relevance.
Pearls
Oyster pearl beaded short necklace in 22k and 24k gold with 15mm pink freshwater Edison pearls, $7,680
“These are called Edison pearls. They are freshwater pearls, but a special kind whose luster is top-level. Price-wise, they are not close to South Sea.”
Turquoise
Muse earrings in 24k gold with No. 8 turquoise and diamonds, $11,220
“I started cutting mostly turquoise. These are from the No. 8 mine in Nevada, all different shapes that I collected from Tucson.”
Opals
Elements opal all around single-strand bracelet in 24k gold with Ethiopian opals, $15,570
“I love opal. These are our statement pieces.”
“Glint” gold
Glint gold agate long drop earrings in 22k and 24k gold with 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,950
“We figured out a new style. We call it ‘Glint.’ It’s like a part of the piece has been dipped in gold. I use it in earrings also, which is very useful. You start making lighter earrings using less gold.”
Micromosaics
Antiquities micromosaic pendant necklace in 22k and 24k gold with 0.17 ct. diamond, $5,385
“These micromosaics are all Italian, and they were made between the 1830s and 1880s, in the Victorian period. And they were souvenirs of the Grand Tour.”
Top: Glint gold turquoise all around short necklace in 24k gold, $28,020; Gurhan