In Collezione 1967, the new high jewelry collection that the Italian jeweler Pomellato introduced earlier this month, the brand looks back at three decades of its greatest hits: chain jewels in the 1970s, sculptural jewels in the ’80s, and richly hued cabochon gem designs in the ’90s.
Totaling 75 pieces, the collection, which is named after Pomellato’s founding year, charts the house’s evolving identity over the years. “The new high jewelry collection marks a powerful return to our roots distilling the essence of three decades, capturing moments that have defined Pomellato’s identity as we love it today: unconventional and unmistakable,” Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director, said in a statement.
Below, a guide to the collection’s most spectacular designs.
The 1970s: Chains
Pomellato founder Pino Rabolini drew on Milanese goldsmithing traditions when he created the brand’s first chain collection in the 1970s. To honor that legacy, the house created 20 pieces, highlighted by the Aquamarine Dream necklace, a reimagined—and diamond-encrusted—take on Pomellato’s signature forçat chain.
Aquamarine Dream necklace in 18k rose gold with 53.93 cts. t.w. aquamarines and diamonds, price on request
Centered on two spectacular aquamarines—a rounded-rectangular cabochon of 37.98 carats and a faceted drop pendant of 15.95 carats—the necklace places equal emphasis on looks as well as comfort. Note: The dégradé links are smaller in back and gradually increase in size towards the front.
The 1980s: Bold Architectural Forms
True to the decade’s ethos of power dressing, Pomellato celebrated the era with jewels that were big, bold, and sculptural. The house’s modern interpretation of the period highlights its avant-garde styling, as illustrated in 18 pieces, including a matching necklace and ring centered on violet-blue tanzanites in unusual irregular cuts and a sprinkling of asymmetrical designs, such as a dramatic diamond collar of pavé links set with seven sizable aquamarines in a medley of sizes (featured at top).
Asimmetrico ring in 18k rose gold with 37.73 ct. tanzanite and diamonds, price on request
The 1990s: Rich, Saturated Hues
While the decade is remembered for its minimalism, Pomellato’s innovative, and defining, use of color reflected the optimism that characterized the waning years of the 20th century. “Through exploring radical combinations of extraordinary gemstones and innovative cuts combined with bold volumes, this chromatic expertise introduced a new dimension to Pomellato’s aesthetic vocabulary, becoming integral to its identity,” according to the brand.
Lagoon Bavarole necklace in 18k rose gold with green tourmalines and diamonds, price on request
The 37 pieces that compose this chapter serve as an ode to both Pomellato’s gemstone artistry as well as its elegant, if somewhat contrarian, response to ’90s minimalism. The Lagoon Bavarole necklace, featuring 47 irregular-cut green tourmalines in a graduated cascade of pavé-set rope chains, is the embodiment of Pomellato’s passion for color.
Top: Asimmetrico necklace in 18k rose gold with custom-cut aquamarines and diamonds, price on request