For its August Jewel of the Month, Hancocks London has selected a gem-set cuff that blends craftsmanship, rarity, and provenance. Dating to around 1945, the 18k yellow gold Rouleau cuff (£48,500, or approximately $65,000) comes with a certificate of authenticity confirming it was created by French jeweler John Rubel.
Rubel was an unsung hero of French haute joaillerie in the 1930s and ’40s, the talent behind several of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most famous creations, including the original ballerina brooches. After working for VC&A, Rubel’s atelier operated independently from 1943 to the mid-1950s—the period when this cuff was produced.
The Rouleau cuff’s central cylinder is set with four rows of cushion-cut, cognac-colored citrines, weighing a total of approximately 24 cts. There are 28 individual stones, each claw-set in 18k yellow gold and interspersed with small, old-cut diamonds.
Gold fan motifs that flank the barrel are decorated with star-set diamonds and have bombé terminals filled with turquoise cabochons and rubies. The cuff’s design includes an innovative swiveling mechanism for putting the bracelet on and taking it off.
“This is an incredible cuff—sculptural, colorful, and totally glamorous,” said Hancocks London creative director Amy Burton in a statement. She adds that the piece “encapsulates the postwar aesthetic where bold, color pairings were embraced with refined French craftsmanship, and where designs reflected confidence and strength”.
Top: Rouleau cuff by John Rubel (circa 1945) in 18k yellow gold with 24 cts. t.w. cushion-cut citrines, 1 ct. t.w. round single-cut diamonds, 1.9 cts. t.w. faceted and cabochon rubies, and turquoise, £48,500 (photo courtesy of Hancocks London)
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