If baroque pearls are the red-carpet choice for Dame Helen Mirren, then get ready for the rest of the world to jump on the growing trend for these wonderful, oddly shaped gemstones.
Mirren wore the Margot McKinney Kiss collier, featuring a baroque Australian South Sea pearl drop, to the Aug. 14 New York City screening of Netflix’s new comedy thriller The Thursday Murder Club.
Lumpy yet lovable—that’s how designers think of baroque pearls, and these irregular wonders are utilized in a myriad ways in fine jewelry. Mirren’s necklace was full of keshi pearls set with 14.09 cts. t.w. diamonds (she paired the collier with Margot McKinney’s Kiss earrings in 18k brushed yellow gold with two Australian South Sea pearls and 2.74 cts. t.w. diamonds).
Jewelry influencer and rare gem dealer Anup Jogani called baroque pearls “nature’s unruly treasures” in a recent blog post. They seem to be trending in fashion and accessories as well as jewelry. Vogue magazine spotted baroque pearls in Prada’s and Bottega Veneta’s spring/summer collections. J. Crew hand-knotted baroque pearls all over a top-handle straw bag for those casual picnic occasions.
Kiss Collier with 18k yellow gold featuring 12–14 mm keshi pearls, 13.85 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds, and a 17.7 mm baroque Australian South Sea pearl, price on request; Margot McKinney
Phoenix-based fine jewelry brand Whxte used baroque pearls in its latest collection, Luna Mare, which brand designer Alexis Stetler describes as “romantic and effortless.”
“Baroque pearls have a magic all their own—luminous, uniquely shaped, and full of movement,” Stetler says. “I love their organic, imperfect beauty. No two are ever alike, which makes them feel deeply personal, almost like they choose their wearer.
“There’s something soulful about working with them, as if their flowing shapes carry the energy of the ocean itself,” she adds. “Right now, baroque pearls are having such a moment in fashion, but for me, they’ve always been timeless treasures that embody individuality and natural elegance.”
Baroque pearl necklace on 14k yellow gold chain, $595; Common Era
Jen Odell, the designer behind Cape Cod, Mass.–based Paris & Lily, which offers several different necklaces with baroque pearls, tells JCK: “As a handmade jewelry artist and goldsmith living and working by the ocean, I’m endlessly inspired by nature and the treasures of the sea. Baroque pearls captivate me with their unique shapes, shifting colors, and luminous luster.
“No two are ever alike, and their organic beauty brings a sense of character and artistry to my work, making each piece feel like it carries its own story.”
That distinctive, mysterious quality is what captivates Libby Trajkovski, the Michigan-based designer for Goldeluxe Jewelry. “My baroque pearl earrings are some of my all-time best sellers since I released them in 2020,” she says. “Every pair is unique because the pearls vary so widely—the pearls on the pair I recently posted on Instagram are some of the most beautiful I’ve found in recent years.”
Circe’s necklace with 20–22 mm baroque pearls on gold silk with 18k yellow gold clasp, $1,150; Paris & Lily
Baroque pearls are like the planet’s little gift to jewelry lovers, says Gingiberi’s founder and gemologist Emily Zhang, who notes that her U.K. company holds baroque pearls to a strict selection process—not every non-round pearl is considered “baroque,” and they all must meet the AA grading standard, for high luster and minimal surface blemishes. Each baroque pearl also must complement the brand’s design vision in shape and aesthetic, says Zhang.
“Baroque pearls are enjoying a resurgence because their naturally sculpted shapes resonate with today’s love for individuality and authenticity,” she says. “Each is shaped by nature’s own hand, with fluid, unconventional silhouettes that speak of freedom and self-expression, making the wearer feel they hold a one-of-a-kind work of art.”
Here are examples of baroque pearls in jewelry by Gingiberi, Goldeluxe, and other designers.
Cloud earrings with white baroque pearls, $376; Goldeluxe Jewelry
Under the Cloud aurora baroque pearl necklace, $209; Gingiberi
Organic freshwater baroque pearl necklace on sterling silver chain, $280; Sentient
Large pearl, aquamarine, diamond, and moonstone earrings, price on request; Sean Gilson
Baroque pearl in 18k yellow gold ring, $9,500; Tanya Farah
Top: Whxte’s Full Moon necklace ($5,184) has a removable baroque pearl on a 14k yellow gold Italian omega chain. (Photos courtesy of Whxte)
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