Constance Polamalu, designer of Birthright Foundry and chief operating officer of Zachary’s Jewelers in Annapolis, Md., describes herself as bilingual: “English is the only verbal language that I speak, but my second fluency is jewelry,” she tells JCK.
Her approach to trends and design blends her American Samoan heritage with a sharp eye on how Gen Z is reviving 1990s jewelry icons like the Tin Cup pearl necklace. During the pandemic, Polamalu saw the station-style pearl strand make a surprising comeback. “We started to think, what are these Gen Z girls doing?” she recalls.
On the love of layering
Women today are styling pearls in unexpected abundance. Instead of a single 16-inch strand, they layer multiple lengths—15, 16, 18, even 20 inches—creating a modern pearl statement that feels bold yet elegant.
Engravable Nifo pendant in 18k gold, $5,250; Birthright Foundry
On juxtaposing pearls with gold chains
“It’s no longer pearls over a black dress. It’s pearls over jeans and a T-shirt, paired with chunky gold chains like Tiffany’s HardWear collection,” Polamalu says. The contrast between soft pearls and hard-edged gold is part of what makes pearls feel sexy again.
On men’s embrace of pearls
Interestingly, the most classic style—a simple 16-inch strand—is finding an audience with men. Worn at the collar, this look mirrors the way women wore pearls in the 1950s, but today it feels refreshingly new for male wearers.
On the Tin Cup revival
At Zachary’s Jewelers, sales of Tin Cup necklaces are thriving. “I thought the style was dead,” Polamalu admits, “but Gen Z has brought it back. Even older women are rediscovering their pearls, inspired by how younger women wear them.” The affordable price point and timeless design make the Tin Cup necklace a cross-generational favorite.
16.5-inch Tin Cup necklace in 14k yellow gold with 7 mm x 6.5 mm cultured pearls, $1,575; Zachary’s Jewelers
On bringing pearls into Birthright Foundry
Although her brand initially focused on diamonds and gold, Polamalu is now ready to weave pearls into Birthright Foundry’s cultural narrative. She has introduced platinum and blue akoya pearls, sourced from Eliko Pearls, to distinguish the brand’s Samoan-inspired designs. “Pearls are absolutely in vogue, and we highlight them by merchandising sharp edges with pearls, creating pieces like our Nifo enhancer that bring edginess and sexiness,” she says.
For retailers, the message is clear: pearls are no longer reserved for tradition or formality. The Gen Z pearl trend—layered, gender-inclusive, and experimental—is reshaping the way the market views this classic gem.
👉 Explore more insights in our Jewelry Guide and discover how classic gems like pearls are transforming modern style.