Fresh off a Tucson buying spree, self-described colored gemstone obsessive Ray Griffiths designed his latest batch of jewelry, meant for summer soirees and all about beads, baroque pearls, and outrageous opals.
His summer jewelry collection features fun cocktail-style rings, punchy earrings, and beaded necklaces meant to stack. What about gold? With prices so high, the longtime jewelry designer says he has only added touches of gold here and there in his newest pieces.
“Who knows when it is going to stop? I remember when it was only $800 an ounce,” Griffiths says from his New York City studio. “I’m the everyperson jeweler. I’m still gold-forward, but I’m adding more beading. That way, I can deliver on a big luxury look without a price to match.”
Ray Griffiths beadsGreen is a summertime jewelry favorite, says Ray Griffiths, and he is especially proud of the emerald and tsavorite ring ($12,375)—pictured here between the pendant and beads—that he created after finding the stones in Tucson.
Clients will still see Griffiths’ famed Crownwork technique, but it will be in the form of delicate finials selectively placed between summery beads of branch coral, purple amethyst, light blue agate, and lemon-colored chrysoprase. Beaded jewelry is a summertime staple, and Griffiths says this year it seems particularly ready to trend.
“My trunk shows are going well because I’m not turning up with items that are $10,000 or more. I’m trying to keep my price points down,” he says. “It’s all about color, color, color. Everything is beautiful and lightweight. I don’t need to gild the lily because the stones are just amazing.”
Griffiths calls himself an “understated maximalist at heart.” Take his Madeira citrine ring as an example. The gemstone is a 28.5 ct. beauty that Griffiths had cut into a bezel setting. He surrounded it with Crownwork to elevate the stone, so it is instantly noticeable on the wearer’s hand.
Ray Griffiths ringsColored gemstone rings with a bit of gold and Griffiths’ signature Crownwork are among the items the designer is taking to his summer trunk shows.
“It fills the setting. You can see every part of the stone through the Crownwork,” Griffiths says. “Who doesn’t want a great big glamorous rock on your finger? Everybody does. We love big rocks.”
Griffiths has also been working with metallic-colored pearls to create large earrings that add an artful look to any summer outfit.
“They’re beautiful, aren’t they? It’s all natural colors—the pearls have that natural metallic luster. Honestly, they’re spectacular. I went mad with pearls this year,” Griffiths says.
Ray Griffiths pearlsGriffiths says he went “mad” for pearls he found with a metallic shine, like on these long baroque pearl earrings ($1,750).
For his beaded necklaces, Griffiths stocked up on blues, greens, reds, and pinks when he was in Tucson. The resulting jewelry features some of his favorite stones, including translucent Chinese jade, sea jasper, Colombian emeralds, and Australian chrysoprase (a nod to his home country).
In rings, Griffiths is offering 3 to 5 ct. gemstones that he’s surrounded with enamel, pavé diamonds, and his signature Crownwork.
“We want happy jewels,” he says with a laugh, showing off a ring with a nearly 5 ct. emerald, flanked by tsavorite garnets. “When I saw that emerald in Tucson, I ran at it. A few other people wanted to purchase it, but I knew I would get it.”
Top: Ray Griffiths’ new jewelry for summer goes big with beads and small with gold, given the high price per ounce. (Photos courtesy of Ray Griffiths)