A Legacy Meets a Turning Point
Covering Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary feels less like reporting on a watch release and more like witnessing a philosophical gamble. For a century and a half, AP has defined high horology with perpetual calendars that demanded bigger, heavier cases. Now they’ve unveiled a 38mm perpetual calendar, effectively telling the industry: fine watchmaking doesn’t have to exclude women.
The Promise of Inclusivity—Or Just Marketing?
On paper, it’s radical. A complication that traditionally needed hundreds of parts shrunk into an ergonomic size, accessible to smaller wrists, symbolically “inviting everyone to dream.” But I can’t help asking: is this really inclusion, or just a clever repositioning in a market that increasingly demands brands to look progressive? In an era obsessed with ethical jewelry and the credibility of sustainable gemstones, inclusivity campaigns without material transparency risk feeling hollow.
Craftsmanship Meets New Consumer Values
As a journalist, I admire the technical feat—shrinking such a movement is no small task. Yet, as someone watching where luxury is headed, I also know consumers are asking harder questions. Does a 150-year-old house address the climate impact of precious metal mining? Can it connect its artisanal brilliance to the same standards we expect from lab-grown diamonds—traceable, responsible, modern?
Watches, Women, and the Weight of Proof
AP says this watch places women at the center of the narrative. Fair enough. But today’s luxury buyer, whether female or male, also wants ethical jewelry standards applied across categories. Transparency, recycled materials, even nods to lab-grown gemstones are shaping expectations. A smaller watch isn’t enough—it’s the values behind the dial that matter.
My Take
As I write this, I can’t help but think: AP has pulled off a horological marvel, but the bigger question is whether they’ve pulled off a cultural one. A smaller case may symbolize inclusivity, but without pairing it with ethical innovation, this anniversary risks looking like a celebration of style without substance.