Geneva — Nearly a century after it defied icy waves and skepticism, one of the first Rolex Oyster watches ever made is heading to Sotheby’s Geneva on Nov. 9, where it’s expected to fetch over $1.3 million.
This isn’t just any vintage timepiece—it’s the very watch worn by British endurance swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her 1927 “Vindication Swim” across the English Channel, a feat that not only tested human endurance but also launched Rolex’s legacy as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch brand.
The Rolex Oyster, introduced in 1926, was the brainchild of Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, who envisioned a hermetically sealed case that could withstand dust, moisture, and water—something no wristwatch had achieved before. When Wilsdorf handed one of the earliest Oysters to Gleitze, it was a marketing gamble that would permanently link engineering innovation with human adventure.
Though Gleitze’s second attempt to cross the Channel ended after 10 grueling hours in freezing seas, her endurance—and her watch’s survival—became headline news. “The Rolex Oyster proved itself a reliable and accurate companion even under complete immersion for over 10 hours,” she said afterward. That single statement transformed Rolex from a modest watchmaker into a symbol of durability and prestige.
The 9-karat yellow gold Oyster she wore is one of only a handful of pre-patent prototypes, made before Rolex officially secured its crown and case sealing patent in 1927. Sotheby’s calls it “one of the most significant wristwatches still in private hands.”
This collaboration between Gleitze and Wilsdorf predates today’s influencer era by nearly a century—marking what experts now call the birth of brand ambassadorship. As Sotheby’s global chairman of watches Sam Hines put it:
“From that moment forward, Rolex aligned itself with adventurers, athletes, and professionals in the most demanding environments on Earth.”
But the upcoming auction also reignites debate in collector circles: Is this Rolex a historical artifact or a luxury trophy? Some see it as the ultimate collector’s piece—a watch that bridges gender history, sport, and innovation. Others view its seven-figure estimate as a reflection of the inflated watch market, where storytelling now drives prices more than mechanics.
Either way, the Mercedes Gleitze Oyster is more than just a timepiece—it’s a turning point. It embodies the very moment Rolex transformed a watch into a legend, and a woman’s determination became the foundation of modern watch marketing.
The sale will take place at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, with full details available on the Sotheby’s website.
👉 Explore our Jewelry & Watch Guide to discover how icons like the Rolex Oyster shaped modern luxury and redefined the power of storytelling in design.