Artificial intelligence (AI) is making a big splash in the gemstone and jewelry industry, significantly improving grading, design, sales, marketing, and operational efficiency.
Gem labs and tech consulting companies were some of the earliest adopters. Sarine Technologies, for example, launched its AI-powered diamond grading technology, Sarine Clarity and Sarine Color, in 2017. Since then, the company has continuously innovated with AI-driven services. In 2020, the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) partnered with IBM to develop an AI system for diamond clarity grading, marking the first exploration of AI’s potential in the jewelry field. Today, GIA’s AI-based clarity system is used across all its labs worldwide to grade diamonds from D-Z.
Clear Potential
Pritesh Patel, Senior Vice President and COO of GIA, pointed out that while AI can grade nearly all sizes and shapes of diamonds, there are still areas that present challenges. The system operates under the supervision of highly trained gemologists to ensure top-quality results, especially for larger diamonds or those with exceptionally high clarity.
The GIA is also using AI in its GIA Match iD system for certificate verification. Patel mentioned that AI could eventually expand into other areas, such as colored gemstone identification. However, gemstone treatment detection still requires the expertise of gemologists and scientists to accurately interpret data.
Gemstone Possibilities
In the colored gemstone field, Gübelin Gem Lab has made significant progress with its AI-powered Gemtelligence platform. Since its launch in February 2023, the deep learning system has helped gemologists evaluate data from rubies, sapphires, and emeralds submitted for certification.
Daniel Nyfeler, Executive Director of Gübelin, explained that Gemtelligence reduces human error in data interpretation, improving consistency and accuracy by extracting more information from specific datasets, including determining gemstone origins.
Gemtelligence is now used for its specialized Gemstone Passport service, providing clients with simplified origin and treatment details for rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. The system has significantly lowered costs, allowing the service to be offered for just 200 Swiss Francs (about $224).
Inspired by Gemtelligence’s success, Gübelin is exploring further applications of AI in colored gemstone grading. Machine learning could eventually incorporate new data types, including images. However, color grading remains a challenging area. Nyfeler emphasized that no current technology can reliably provide consistent, quantitative analysis of three-dimensional, transparent gemstones made of multiple materials.
Brand Practices
AI has helped the German gem-cutting company Constantin Wild GmbH & Co KG create a strong new brand identity through Cyber Gem World, which combines the timeless beauty of colored gemstones with the possibilities of AI in the modern world. The company has used AI to generate digital art pieces that showcase gemstones in imaginative, futuristic designs.
One such piece featured a yellow sapphire from Sri Lanka embedded in a futuristic fashionista's jacket, while another piece showcased blue aquamarine paired with a pink flamingo-dressed woman. These AI-created designs push the boundaries of both artistic expression and jewelry design.
Creative Designs
In high-end jewelry, AI is also showing its potential. Payal Shah, founder and designer of L'Dezen, has been at the forefront of Web3 and AI innovations in jewelry. She was among the first in the industry to embrace non-fungible tokens (NFTs) and has since been actively exploring how AI can enhance creativity and efficiency in the jewelry sector.
Shah uses AI-driven design software to generate new concepts, exploring patterns and forms that might not be immediately intuitive. Text-to-image generators also help create mood boards that inspire her designs.
For example, actress Sienna Miller commissioned a necklace from Shah’s Psylish brand, which featured her daughter's handwritten signature transformed into a pendant design using AI. Miller instantly loved the design and wore it at Wimbledon.
Shah believes AI can significantly transform all aspects of jewelry business, from design to customer engagement. She sees AI as a tool that can provide a competitive edge, especially for independent designers competing against big brands with larger marketing budgets.
Balancing Art and Technology
Shiyamali Paranirupasingam, founder of L’Amour Pearls, is another advocate of AI in the jewelry industry. AI technologies such as chatbots, AI-driven emails, and augmented reality (AR) try-on features have already streamlined her business operations.
However, Paranirupasingam stresses the importance of maintaining the artistic integrity of jewelry design. She believes AI should enhance, not replace, human creativity. “AI should inspire the human design process, but the final decisions and artistic expression should remain with the designers,” she explains.
In the pearl industry, where traditional practices are deeply rooted, AI can boost efficiency, quality, and sustainability. AI holds great potential for grading, sorting, and pearl farming, improving processes that have traditionally been labor-intensive.
Operational Efficiency
Shah has also leveraged AI to improve operational and retail efficiencies. AI is helping to automate administrative tasks, allowing designers to focus more on creativity. Atelier Mille Or, a jewelry company, uses AI to manage production schedules, customer orders, and project deadlines, ensuring timely deliveries.
Shah notes that AI can gather valuable customer feedback, helping to guide decisions. For example, AI research helped her avoid involvement in lab-grown diamonds, while another AI-driven study led to a new jewelry line using recycled gold.
While AI offers many opportunities, Shah warns that it’s crucial to ensure data privacy and originality. Jewelers must balance innovation with the protection of intellectual property to avoid copyright infringement issues.
Shah is eager to share her experiences with the wider jewelry community and has published a list of 200 AI prompts she frequently uses for marketing activities. “I want to inspire jewelers to embrace these transformative tools,” she says.
AI in Jewelry Education
Atelier Mille Or is also offering AI-focused jewelry design courses, which cover the fundamentals of AI in design and its practical applications. These courses are helping a new generation of jewelers learn how to integrate AI into their creative processes.
Messaoudi believes that AI can open new perspectives on symmetry and organic forms, helping designers explore new creative horizons. However, the balance between tradition and innovation is essential. AI should be used to elevate creativity, not to replace the craftsmanship that defines the jewelry industry.
In conclusion, AI’s role in jewelry design and production is rapidly growing, with both challenges and exciting opportunities ahead. As technology advances, it’s up to designers, manufacturers, and consumers to strike the right balance between tradition and innovation.