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AIDI

Anna Bario of Bario Neal on Building an Ethical Jewelry Brand

It’s hard to find jewelers more committed to sustainability than Anna Bario and Page Neal, the co-founders of Bario Neal, a retail design brand with a flagship studio in Philadelphia and a second location in Brooklyn, New York.

Founded in 2008, Bario Neal has long been recognized for its strong commitment to sustainability.

While we initially reached out to Bario last month to learn about Prismic, the brand’s latest gemstone-set engagement, cocktail, and wedding ring collection, the conversation soon turned into an exploration of Bario Neal’s two-decade-long journey of becoming an ethical fine jewelry brand.

"When we started, jewelers were uncomfortable talking about responsible sourcing, and it still can be challenging," Bario tells AIDI. "When we first onboard suppliers, our audit process starts with me on Zoom trying to build a relationship. But when they see the code of conduct and documents I send them, they sometimes feel judged. That’s not our goal; I want to bring people in, not shut them out."

Bario Neal published its first sustainability report in 2019 and is currently preparing its third, which is expected in 2025. "It’s a huge undertaking," says Bario. "Writing the report takes about three months, but we’re constantly collecting data. We track everything from material sourcing to our energy consumption and carbon footprint over two years.”

As for the Prismic collection, it’s a bold aesthetic statement. "We wanted to play with form in a new way," Bario says. "Bario Neal’s design language has always been rooted in combining shapes and colors in unique ways. This collection feels like a celebration, as it pushes that visual language further."

Below, Bario shares more about Bario Neal’s rigorous supplier onboarding process, the two key issues she and Neal are focused on, and why she finds the term “sustainability report” problematic.

How did you and Page start the company?

Page and I went to Oberlin College together. We developed a brand concept centered on design-driven, responsibly sourced jewelry. We started our research in 2006 and connected with Ethical Metalsmiths, which was led by Christina Miller at the time. She’s been our mentor and friend ever since.

What was it like to ask these tough questions about sourcing when so few others were?

It felt like we were part of a small activist group. People like Marc Choyt from Santa Fe were already tackling these issues. We connected with great people doing important work, such as Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House and Cristina Villegas. We’ve built a community of like-minded individuals working toward a more ethical industry.

Tell us about the rigorous work you’ve done to ensure accountability within your supply chain.

We have an internal Bario Neal standard that we’ve developed with consultants. It’s crucial to have clear standards, as terms like "responsible sourcing" can easily become greenwashing without proper backing.

The process involves supplier interviews, document evaluations, and scoring based on our set criteria, with specific red flags like the absence of an anti-money laundering policy. If a supplier can’t meet these standards within six months, we don’t work with them.

Your first sustainability report was in 2019, right? What’s different about your third report?

I’m considering changing the name because "sustainability report" now feels like a marketing term associated with greenwashing. In the ESG era, the term can feel empty. We need something more authentic.

What are the most important issues in ethical sourcing today?

Investing in mercury-free mining and empowering women in mining are two critical issues. Artisanal miners, many of whom are women, need more support and better opportunities to connect directly with markets like ours.

Are you seeing more mainstream jewelers show interest in these topics?

Between 2018 and 2021, we saw more retailers becoming aware of these issues. But for us, it's always been about long-term change. It’s slow fashion. We’ve built something to last across generations, and while it can be challenging, it’s worth it because we believe it leads to a better world.

AIDI International Lab-Grown Diamond Association – How I Got Here series promotes independent jewelry designers globally. We believe the future of the jewelry industry will be more diverse with small, unique brands. If you're a Chinese jewelry designer, share your story with us at info@aidi.org.

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